Just 15km from the Iguazú Falls in Misiones lies Fortín Mbororé, a Guaraní settlement of 800 people. As I walk into the community from the main road, along a red dirt track, I feel I couldn’t be further away from the waterfalls and the slick circus of tours that go with them.

If you’re travelling around Argentina, Misiones is sure to feature on the itinerary. For it is here, on the borders of Brazil and Paraguay, that the Iguazú Falls form the centrepiece of one of the most breathtaking natural settings in the world. But as the name of the province – Misiones – suggests, there are other important treasures to be found aside from natural wonders.